Viper Mini wireless conversion installation

This guide walks through a Viper Mini wireless conversion, from opening the mouse to checking the buttons. Take your time, and follow the photos as you go.

Before you start: Trimming the shell permanently changes it. If anything is unclear, stop and ask before cutting. This installation does not require soldering.

01 — Warm the bottom label

Gently warm the label on the bottom of the mouse with a hair dryer.

Warm the Viper Mini's bottom label with a hair dryer — Warm the label gently.

02 — Peel off the label

Carefully peel the label off. A knife can help lift an edge. Keep it somewhere clean and dust-free so you can put it back later.

Lift the bottom label from the Viper Mini — Lift an edge carefully.

The Viper Mini label removed to expose the screws — Set the label aside somewhere clean.

03 — Remove the three bottom screws

Take out the three screws under the label.

The three bottom screws under the Viper Mini label — Remove all three screws.

04 — Open the mouse

Press down gently at the gap shown in the photos to release the shell. Work slowly around the seam; don’t force it.

Press at the gap to open the Viper Mini shell — Press at the gap to release the shell.

The Viper Mini shell opened — Open the shell carefully.

05 — Remove the five PCB screws

Take out the five screws holding the PCB in place.

Remove the five screws holding the Viper Mini PCB — Remove all five before lifting the board.

06 — Remove the original PCB and parts

Lift out the original PCB, then remove the optical switches and cable as shown.

Remove the original Viper Mini PCB, optical switches, and cable — Remove the original board and parts.

07 — Trim the top shell

This step permanently modifies the top shell. Carefully cut away the plastic marked with red lines in photos 7.1 and 7.2. Photos 7.3–7.5 show the finished areas. Remove only the marked sections, and check the fit as you go.

Red lines mark plastic to remove from the top shell — Trim only along the red marks.

Second red-marked area to trim on the top shell — Remove the marked plastic.

Finished top shell trim, view one — Finished area.

Finished top shell trim, view two — Check the edges.

Finished top shell trim, view three — Top shell after trimming.

08 — Trim the bottom shell

This also permanently modifies the shell. Cut away only the plastic marked in red in photo 8.1. Photos 8.2–8.4 show the finished result from different angles.

Red line marks plastic to remove from the bottom shell — Cut along the marked area.

Finished bottom shell trim, first view — Check the trimmed section.

Finished bottom shell trim, second view — Check the fit from this angle.

Finished bottom shell trim, third view — Bottom shell after trimming.

09 — Install the wireless PCB

Install the scroll wheel first, then place the new PCB in the shell and fasten it with the five screws.

Hold the new PCB with the scroll wheel installed — New PCB with the scroll wheel installed.

Five red-circled mounting holes on the PCB — Line up the five mounting holes.

Wireless PCB secured with five screws — PCB secured with all five screws.

10 — Refit the shells

Put the top and bottom shells together, then reinstall the three bottom screws. You can fine-tune the left and right click feel by adjusting the screws marked with red circles in the photo.

Reassemble the Viper Mini and adjust the marked screws — Reassemble and adjust the marked screws if needed.

11 — Test the buttons and replace the label

Check that the buttons feel right. Once everything is working as expected, put the bottom label back on.

Viper Mini reassembled with its bottom label in place — Reassembled mouse with the label back in place.

That’s it — your Viper Mini wireless conversion is complete.

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